Don’t add anything that isn’t approved by me. There is nothing that happens by chance on my engine combinations. Therefore, when you start changing carbs, timing, distributor parts, etc., you are heading down a path that makes little sense. If you already know more than I do about how to build something, and want to outsmart me with your upgrades, then please, DON’T buy my product - just build it yourself. Never add crankcase evac kits, timing adjusters, spark boxes, etc to anything of mine. If I wanted it there and my research showed it was justified, I would have it there.

Engine cradles, distributor protectors, and the like are another great topic. There are many combinations of these out there that will not be a problem on my engines. In fact, we were the first to offer a complete hoop around the front of the engine that prevented damage to carbs, or for headers pushing into the sides of valve covers. From that time, many have thought that if a little is good more is better. Not necessarily. I experimented with full engine cages many years ago. In fact, it was at the same time we were testing the original carb/dist protector. It should be noted that most builders of engine add ons are not engine builders themselves (well, not successful ones with access to the data we have). While it seems like common sense now, back in the day I wanted to verify that some of the early cage designs we were working on were simply not healthy for the engine. Engines under temperature fluctuations must expand and contract in critical areas. There is minor block distortion on the external bolt holes during wide temperature swings, but the real problem is the in the head, head gasket, intake, and intake gasket areas. When you bolt or weld a cage around the engine that places a load on these components, you will never allow the engine to properly grow, or shrink for that matter. Also, you are using plate steel on an engine that is cast iron, and the two expand and dissipate heat differently. This changes the natural characteristics of the engine, and will lead to premature failure. No two engines are exact in the casting holes, deck height, etc either, so you almost have to have the engine in front of you to build an exact cage for it anyway. Sure, you can solve both of those issues by making the bolt holes for the cage sloppy enough that it will fit various engines, but once you tighten it, you still have the expansion/contraction problem, and if you leave the bolts a little loose to try and aid that, what are you really gaining for strength of the cage? On my carb/distributor protector, I was careful to only require two bolts to be tied into the intake, and two to the water pump minimizing the effect of any type of expansion. But again, expansion is still there, and is noticeable when you check the torque figures on those two intake bolts at varying temperatures on my test stands.

I can’t think of any reason an person would sell you something that shortens the life of your engine - well, except for ignorance because they didn’t think about that problem or even to ever test it. What is even more perplexing is why some engine builders stock those parts to sell WITH their engines. I guess making another $100 is worth destroying their integrity. Then again, that is fairly common in our sport.

I also see vendors selling parts that should never be used on derby cars, unless there is no other choice. Take an aluminum water pump, for example. They have a lot of nice ones that flow great and have trick stuff, but are cast aluminum. Fine on a race car that doesn’t see over 250 degrees. Boil one hard on a derby engine, and the bearings tend to not spin as free many times because the casting is distorted. I know, now a bunch of people will actually think about that one and test it like I do from time to time. Another trick learned from circle track that made its way over to the derby world with my experience.